MANY people I know who live in Scotland’s Central Belt think one thing when heading off on holiday at home – “I must head north!”.
That means they miss out on the Scottish Borders, a travesty considering that this seriously scenic escape offers so much history, a weave of historic towns and a deeply rich culture, all in such a compact area.
I’ve just been back down on the Borders Railway, which re-opened in 2015, injecting new life into the Tweed Valley. It reminded me, and continues to remind me, that the Borders are so easy to get to for so many people, just a scenic hour or even less saunter south from Edinburgh Waverley.
My most recent visit was to investigate if Galashiels really is the “happiest place in Scotland” as a Rightmove survey late last year claimed. I admit I had my doubts, but left with a big smile on my face after taking in a whole host of attractions in the revamped town centre, including the glorious new, already award-winning, Great Tapestry of Scotland visitor centre.
If you’ve not been you have to visit the world’s largest community stitched tapestry. You can keep your Bayeux – I’d prefer to be in Gala working my way through over 400 million years of Scotland’s story across the 160 panels. Truly brilliant.
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The Borders Railway and the Great Tapestry of Scotland visitor centre have really been a catalyst for change in Gala. I found award-winning artisan coffee roaster Luckie Beans, vegan bakery Zola’s, superb Italian Paolo’s and the brilliant MacArts live music venue all thriving. There is a real buzz about the place that is reassuringly grounded within the community.
Just down the road is Hawick, another town that had been in decline following the unravelling of its once mighty textile mills. Hawick, of course, gave the world Tweed. I’m really impressed by the “Famously Hawick” initiative, which has ensured local businesses work together rather than lock horns.
The Borders Distillery, William Lockie, Johnston’s of Elgin, Lovat Mill and Hawico make unlikely bedfellows, but it works really well for visitors as they form a trail that is easy to follow. And it’s not just a shopping trail as you learn about the history of Hawick as you go.
The Borders work supremely well for walkers too. A great base is Melrose, where no fewer than three of Scotland’s great long distance walking routes converge. The 212-mile Southern Upland Way breezes through on its coast to coast epic way.
A handy circular walk is the Borders Abbeys Way, which kicks off at Melrose Abbey and swoops off in search of Dryburgh Abbey and Kelso Abbey to the east and Jedburgh Abbey further south. The third is the St Cuthbert’s Way, which again starts at Melrose Abbey and pushes south across the border to Lindisfarne.
Visitors on two wheels are not ignored either. There are a number of mountain bike centres dotted around the region, with the highlight at Glentress one of Scotland’s best equipped. I highly recommend it to bikers of all skill levels – I’ve honed my own skills here over the years, with some great tuition.
Whether it’s hiking, mountain biking or road cycling – or for that matter fishing, surfing or sailing – you’ll work up a healthy appetite. Handily the region’s produce is top notch. We’re talking both superb salmon and trout, plus the rich seafood bounty landed at Eyemouth. Venison from the hills is a star too, with Borders lamb needing no introduction. Restaurant and delis come stuffed with local produce in the old market towns of Melrose, Peebles, Gala, Jedburgh, Kelso and Selkirk.
We cannot leave the Borders without mentioning Sir Walter Scott. Surely no writer has loved the Borders as much as the man who had such a hand in immortalising the Borders Ballads and the remarkable local landscapes. I recommend you visit Scott’s View to stand in his shoes and see the Borders as he did.
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It is said his horses on the funeral cortege knew to stop here. To learn more tour his palatial abode on the banks of the Tweed. Abbotsford opens up a unique window into the man and the writer, and also deep into Scottish history with memorabilia from such luminaries as Burns and Bonnie Prince Charlie.
Barrelling back north through the lush Borders hills on my latest visit writing I realise I’ve not even mentioned the Eildon Hills, the superb Trimontium Roman museum in Melrose, lavish Floors Castle and the spectacular scenery and wildlife of St Abbs.
The Scottish Borders are the region that just keeps on giving. What are you waiting for, how about considering heading south rather than north on your next holiday?
For more information see www.scotlandstartshere.com and www.visitscotland.com.
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