OUR Mallorcan waitress beamed with delight as Ruaridh took the plunge and practised his Spanish as he ordered a platter of tapas.
Her sunny smile was encouraging as his confidence grew and my purse slowly emptied, thanks to the tasty selection on offer.
It had been with slight trepidation that we decided to get friendly with the locals as tourists in Mallorca have recently been targeted by fed-up natives battling to enjoy their homeland without mass intrusion.
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But during the short break to the beautiful capital of Palma, we could not have felt more welcome, with locals happy to help, recommend and converse in their mother tongue.
Our visit coincided with research from Dr Guillem Colom-Montero of Glasgow University earlier this year into what impact tourism has had on Mallorca compared to the Scottish Highlands and Islands.
The academic looked into how over the last 10 years, both places – although so different in culture and climate – have become affected in an industry which has become the main focus of public and political debate.
Mallorca is home to one million people, but receives more than 12 million tourists a year, leading to concerns that the “unsustainable force” is transforming the island’s environment, landscape and territory, as well as its sociocultural fabric.
The modern languages lecturer said in his report: “Mallorcan culture has seen a mushrooming of creative, literary, and cultural responses to overtourism, including fiction, poetry, travelogues, documentary film, drama, political cartooning, and a body of cultural production by grassroots activism.
“These creations represent tourism through narratives and vocabularies of colonialism, invasion, destruction, illness, malaise, and collective trauma.
“This acutely critical perspective suggests a culturally traumatic experience associated with the environmental and sociocultural effects of mass tourism on Mallorca.
“It is fascinating to see parallels with Scotland, where communities are also facing similar problems and are now beginning to find their voices against mass tourism and its impact on their local areas.”
As part of his research, Dr Colom-Montero visited the Isle of Barra, where he screened the Mallorcan documentary film Overbooking, which revolves around the impacts of mass tourism on the island, in the Barra Learning Centre and Castlebay Community School.
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The reaction from locals on the Hebridean island included “feeling like they were living in a theme park” and the concern that tourists see rural Scotland as a travel destination, rather than a place where people live and work.
The North Coast 500 route in the Highlands was sighted as a major reason for unsustainable tourism in the region, leaving communities feeling overwhelmed and powerless, especially as outsiders move in and put more strain on housing and public services.
It’s a tricky problem to solve, now travel is more accessible, but as Ruaridh and I found out in Palma, making a wee bit of an effort to blend in goes a long way.
Our visit was nothing but positive, with only a smattering of graffiti voicing the “no tourist” feelings. Staying in the up-and-coming Santa Catalina district, a former fishing neighbourhood, the vibes were friendly and positive.
Here self-catering accommodation nestles next to fancy hotels and the leafy streets are packed with arty shops and cafes, serving a diverse selection of cuisine, from traditional to Colombian.
The mecca for clubs and bars on the 16-stop route of the City Sightseeing bus, which takes you to the Castell de Bellver (pictured below), a gothic-style monument.
Built in the 14th century for King James II, it is Spain’s only circular castle and its commanding hilltop position gives a 360-degree view of the bay of Palma and the 90km Tramuntana mountain range.
The perfectly preserved castle was once the summer residence of the royal family, who now spend their visits to Mallorca at the 14th-century Royal Palace of La Almudaina, next to the equally impressive cathedral.
Both are major landmarks in the city and their beautiful architecture is a stunning sight to see, with the cathedral boasting 61 stained glass windows, with the most impressive being the central rose one.
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A typical landmark is the Basilica de San Francisco, a 13th-century church which was remodelled in the 17th century after being hit by lighting and with a lovely airy courtyard bursting with orange and lemon trees.
Palma is a great place to base yourself while exploring Mallorca and a popular day trip is to Sóller – a 30-minute journey from the capital.
Famous for being in a bowl-shaped valley, this charming town known for its abundance of citrus groves can be reached from Palma by a 100 year old wooden tram which arrives in Sóller’s main square with a majestic toot of the horn.
The town is split in two, with Port de Sóller, a seaside resort with a beautiful beach, while the other side is historic and full of winding streets and beautiful traditional houses.
Beaches are important in Mallorca, with the Playa de Muro near to Alcúdia, dubbed one of the prettiest. The Playa de Palma is the nearest to Palma centre and has a lively hub of restaurants and bars.
Contemporary art is big in Palma and the Plaça Frederic Chopin and surrounding streets are crammed full of lovely, airy galleries showing off the latest works by big names.
Simply strolling around Palma’s old town, a hive for beautiful tree-lined streets, individual shops and traditional cafes and talking to the locals is the best way to enjoy this wonderful island.
Stopping off at one of the many back street bars for a tapas or pintxos ranging from mushrooms “Calle Laurel” style to the traditional Spanish omelette and patatas bravas and testing out a smattering of Spanish with the locals is a sure indication that despite the influx of tourists, the welcome sign is still open for those willing to treat the island with love and respect.
For more information on where to stay, do and see in Mallorca – check out www.mallorca.es.
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