SOMETIMES the Tweed fills me with sadness. Sadness at the thought of Edward I rampaging through Berwick-upon-Tweed massacring thousands of Scots and stealing the major Scottish port in 1296. Today, though, I’m filled with optimism as I cross the stately 1820s wrought iron Union Chain Bridge back into Scotland, as I’ve heard the Berwickshire coast is on the up.
A cheery sign welcomes me to the Scottish Borders and immediately a wee trail snakes along the river as I leave England behind. My first stop at Paxton House is filled with Jacobite intrigue, which guide Jim Casey surprises me with. Just as fascinating are the impressive collection of more than 100 Chippendale pieces, paintings by Raeburn and Wilkie on loan from the National Gallery, and an outrageous collage of costumes immaculately preserved from when the owner attended the court of Frederick the Great.
Nearby Eyemouth is a Scottish Borders town that I normally either dash past on the A1, or nip into for fish ‘n’ chips on the waterfront. This time I’m quickly ensconced for two nights at the cosy family-run Home Arms, which has been welcoming weary travellers since the 19th century. Eyemouth’s history of course dates back far longer as the port for the religious community at Coldingham, then as a port stand-in for Berwick after the 1296 sacking.
Today the deep sea trawler fleet has been trimmed back as the promised Brexit bonanza has failed to materialise. Euan Scott, of the Eyemouth Harbour Trust, remains positive: “We’re seeing a boom in the smaller boats fishing for things like crab, prawn and lobster. And we’re putting a lot of effort into looking at ways to develop the harbour and its surrounds for the good of the community, as well as stakeholders.”
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Eyemouth has had its fair share of knocks over the years, no more tragic than the violent storm in October 1881 that swept 129 Eyemouth men to their deaths (and more souls from the surrounding villages), many within sight of their desperate families. Fittingly, the striking bronze sculpture by the beach is titled “Widows And Bairns”.
As my search for optimism threatens to grind to a mournful halt, I chance upon ReTweed. This social enterprise is a breath of fresh community air.
“We’re here to offer local women the chance to learn traditional skills for free and to give them opportunities,” beams ReTweed’s Maggie McColl. “We welcome visitors to weekend classes too, whose proceeds are funnelled back into the free classes. We’ve got big plans for the future to really help the wider community and bring in as many people as possible.”
I’m impressed by the passion of ReTweed and also their creations for sale, such as colourful tartan purses and elegant cushions. One cushion catches my eye.
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“That is the Berwickshire Tartan,” explains McColl. “It was created by International Tartans – ourh the stately Union Chain Bridge marking the entrance into Scotland, Eyemouth Harbour hiding delicious fishy feasts and sister initiative – to democratise tartan.”
“More than 100 tartans have been officially registered, for everyone from US states to African countries, on to the Samaritans. The latter’s design is called ‘Samaritartan’.”
I lose my first Eyemouth day talking to people in the wee shops and businesses that dot the centre of the old fishing village. The wee nooks and crannies were ideal for smugglers trying to evade the authorities too as I learn at Gunsgreen House. Surely the cheekiest grand house in Scotland was commissioned by John Napier so he could run his “merchant” business, which involved working his way around the 119% tax on tea.
Gunsgreen is a quite brilliant building alive with secret doors, hidden holes and even the multi-floor tea chute. Adam’s architectural creation is currently being revamped, but you can still pop along for one-off events such as themed afternoon teas. You can stay in the characterful old bedrooms too – a thrilling historic experience that also offers great views of the town back across the lifeblood harbour. You can also follow the 20-stop 3km-long Smuggler’s Trail.
There is no hiding away in a smuggler’s cave surviving on salty scraps for me during my few days in Eyemouth. At The Ship, I feast on steamed mussels, then a lemon-infused local prawn risotto. At Rialto Coffee Co, I enjoy superb coffee and opt for lobster with a twist – it’s vegan “lobster”. Oblò Bar And Bistro offers more seafood, followed by the excellent Giaopazzi’s ice cream from the sister business downstairs. My suitably fishy last supper is a fried seafood platter at The Contented Sole.
My departure from Eyemouth is suitably dramatic too as I weave under big Borders skies up the Berwickshire Coastal Path in search of St Abbs. In this picturesque wee village (New Asgard in Marvel) I meet Mark Nicol of Discover Scottish Borders. He guides me to St Abb’s Head.
As the scenery goes into overdrive, we catch sight of a seal pup and then a pod of galloping bottlenose dolphins, all enjoying the voluntary Berwickshire Marine Reserve, the only one of its kind in Scotland.
Mark beams: “The Borders are Scotland’s unsung star attraction and the Berwickshire coast is a huge part of that appeal.”
I don’t need convincing; Edward I must be turning in his grave.
TRAVEL TIP OF THE WEEK
Trail Crazy – Southern Scotland is criss-crossed by an ever-increasing treasure trove of long-distance walking and cycling trails. I’ve walked swathes of the coast-to-coast Southern Upland Way, most of the Borders Abbeys Way and a large tract of the cross-border St Cuthbert’s Way, and every section trampled has been glorious. On the cycling front, this year will see proper signage go up on the new Kirkpatrick C2C. So get your boots on, or your bike out.
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